Preventing Wood slab form Cracking?

[Jack of all Trapping]

I have a large white pine that I took down this year. Its 38 inches across. I have cut several 3 inch thick pieces off of it to use for a hanging sign I plan to make. I have not exposed any to heat at all. They are covered with a tarp under a leanto . I will only need one, but cut 4 just in case I screw up the letter carving. Any of the boys know how I can prevent the slabs from cracking and looking like plumbers butt? I was thinking linseed oil. Anything else work better? Thanks Boys. Jack

[Deleted]

I used liberal amounts of linseed oil on walnut table tops I made for outdoor use. They seem to be holding up well on their 5th year of being outside year round. They are 3-4 inches thick. But, that's walnut. Not sure on pine?

[hogkiller]

If you can get enough cheaply wax works well. I have also used sand to dry green wood,,it's a slow process but helps prevent plumber's crack.
I use Minwax wood hardener to stabalize some knife slabs and it works great but expensive as heck.

[mrchicken]

Paint the end grain NOW before it dries any more.

Wood fibers are like straws and the ends dry out before the center of the board. As the wood dries it shrinks.
So you basically have dry wood on the ends (smaller) and damp wood in the middle (fatter) with the damp wood actually pulling the dry fibers apart since they want to stay in line rather than bend.

That is why wood splits from the ends as it dries.
At least that is the way it was explained to me.

Any slabs that are going to wind up a finished project get cut a little long and the ends painted. Once its dry, I work it up then cut off the excess.

Hope this helps.

[Brad H.]

Dec 31, 2014 14:43:09 GMT -5 mrchicken said:

Paint the end grain NOW before it dries any more.

Wood fibers are like straws and the ends dry out before the center of the board. As the wood dries it shrinks.
So you basically have dry wood on the ends (smaller) and damp wood in the middle (fatter) with the damp wood actually pulling the dry fibers apart since they want to stay in line rather than bend.

That is why wood splits from the ends as it dries.
At least that is the way it was explained to me.

Any slabs that are going to wind up a finished project get cut a little long and the ends painted. Once its dry, I work it up then cut off the excess.

Hope this helps.

X2

[hogkiller]

Dec 31, 2014 16:36:19 GMT -5 Brad H. said:

Dec 31, 2014 14:43:09 GMT -5 mrchicken said:

Paint the end grain NOW before it dries any more.

Wood fibers are like straws and the ends dry out before the center of the board. As the wood dries it shrinks.
So you basically have dry wood on the ends (smaller) and damp wood in the middle (fatter) with the damp wood actually pulling the dry fibers apart since they want to stay in line rather than bend.

That is why wood splits from the ends as it dries.
At least that is the way it was explained to me.

Any slabs that are going to wind up a finished project get cut a little long and the ends painted. Once its dry, I work it up then cut off the excess.

Hope this helps.

X2

x3,,i completely forgot about paint,,,good call mrchicken.

[sixstringer]

Paint with white latex house paint or primer.

Or, seal the ends with parifin wax or axle grease if you can retrim the ends to remove the stained ends.  I have a 4 foot log cut from a pear tree that I am going to use to build a guitar neck and a recurve bow riser.  I can simply cut off an inch.

Whatever you do, do it now.

Best wishes.

[Jack of all Trapping]

:DThank you boys. I knew I could rely on ya!!!!

[dogman]

You can find some s irons on the cut ends of railroad ties and pound them into the cut ends to keep the wood together,have kept white wood species like this for a while when log market bottomed out.Like other post said always cut extra on ends and let dry.Bailys catalouge sells five gallon buckets of wax type palnt,just for sawmill logs.They are on west coast i think.

[oldcamper]

Get some pine tar from your local feed store.  Usually in the horse care section.  Paint that on the ends of the boards, up about two-three inches.  Works for me.  Your mileage may vary.

Old Camper

[Jack of all Trapping]

Thank you

[old243]

Jack , It will also depend where the slabs were cut from in the log. Those nearer the outside will not likely , be as prone to cracking , as those near the heart.  end treating will slow down the drying which is good. Try to dry as slowly as possible . Keep them out of the sun with some ventilation. You did not state if you had stickered them to allow circulation, as it will prevent staining and mould formation. Don't  be in a hurry , thick slabs could take a year to air dry down. If you get splitting , which you may don't try to hide it in the finished product. Make it stand out with the use of black epoxy, or something similar. defects are normal in wood. have fun old243

[Jack of all Trapping]

Thanks. Still stacked crisscrossed. 3" thick. Some pieces 12' long. Mostly white pine. 3 are cedar. 2" thick, 12" wide. Cracking about 1" inch in and marked with pencil where it stopped. No further cracking since October.