Getting ready for next spring

[swampcat]

I kind of jumped into bees this season, I really wasn't prepared knowledge wise or equipment wise just a basic starter type operation.. I have a small sawmill one thats a lot of work but if you work at it gets things done..
So I've sawed down a large pine and working it up into wide boards.. finally I've learned to work short boards instead of long heavy ones, i'm going to cut them all down to bee hive size anyway.. I'm stacking the lumber in the attic of the shop to dry out some..maybe along about December I can start building some small nucs and
hives.. I'm still on the fence of whether to go big or just keep a couple of hives.. that may depend on if things work out well or not..

I'm not skilled at wood working, but do enjoy learning and trying to make bee hives and frames.
one thing leads to another..

I did put out about a dozen swarm traps in the spring, I really haven't checked most of them. after walking up on the copperhead the other day, I'm not looking forward to checking the woods right now. I keep a large garden and bees pretty much disappeared around here so i don't think there are any wild swarms around.. I'll check them around trap season..

[old243]

Swamp cat, I have a mill as well. If you cut your pine into 4/4, sticker it well . You can air dry it until fall. As long as it is covered. If you intend to make some frames, cut a few pieces of 8/4, to make the frame ends, or some 1/2 inch boards . Go to Michigan bees website , then the workshop. They have excellent plans for all the equipment , and frames. I built all my own equipment last winter, good project when it was cold and snowy. You will find that a lot of the pieces can be made out of narrow boards as well, there is hardly any waste. Scrounge around your local dump,or construction sites , for pieces of plywood, and recycled paint, free is good. old243

[swampcat]

Aug 28, 2017 21:43:25 GMT -5 old243 said:

Swamp cat, I have a mill as well. If you cut your pine into 4/4, sticker it well . You can air dry it until fall. As long as it is covered. If you intend to make some frames, cut a few pieces of 8/4, to make the frame ends, or some 1/2 inch boards . Go to Michigan bees website , then the workshop. They have excellent plans for all the equipment , and frames. I built all my own equipment last winter, good project when it was cold and snowy. You will find that a lot of the pieces can be made out of narrow boards as well, there is hardly any waste. Scrounge around your local dump,or construction sites , for pieces of plywood, and recycled paint, free is good. old243

Thanks, I don't understand cutting 4/4 or 8/4.. I've been cutting my boards 1 by 12, or one inch thick and 12 inches wide.. for hive bodies.. I know I will have to cut them down to deep and medium sizes later.. I've just been trying to get the widest boards I could.. should I cut thicker boards? so far I've been putting the boards in the attic of the shop its pretty hot up there.. I'm new at this and appreciate advice.. Lord knows I've made a lot of mistakes on my own..

[old243]

Swampcat, 4/4 or four quarter is the industry standard you are dropping your blade 1 1/4 inches each cut, and end up with a board 1 1/8 thick. 8/4 is actually 2 1/4 inches thick. By cutting this way especially with wide boards, there will sufficient wood that you can plane out cupping, twist and some defects and still end up at 3/4 or a bit thicker, If you can a little thicker box is stronger. If you are slabbing the log to get maximum width, the nearer the heart you get the more cupping and checking , you will get. I prefer to open the log , take  several cuts then turn a quarter, take a couple more, keep turning . look for the clearest defect free boards. If you can cut clear 8/4, it is more valuable , if you intend to sell some. for your own use, short boards, slabs etc, will all make bee equipment. Look at the sawing and drying forum, ask questions, lots of info there. Have fun with your project, ask questions, you can have my two cents worth. old243

[swampcat]

Aug 29, 2017 20:32:53 GMT -5 old243 said:

Swampcat, 4/4 or four quarter is the industry standard you are dropping your blade 1 1/4 inches each cut, and end up with a board 1 1/8 thick. 8/4 is actually 2 1/4 inches thick. By cutting this way especially with wide boards, there will sufficient wood that you can plane out cupping, twist and some defects and still end up at 3/4 or a bit thicker, If you can a little thicker box is stronger. If you are slabbing the log to get maximum width, the nearer the heart you get the more cupping and checking , you will get. I prefer to open the log , take  several cuts then turn a quarter, take a couple more, keep turning . look for the clearest defect free boards. If you can cut clear 8/4, it is more valuable , if you intend to sell some. for your own use, short boards, slabs etc, will all make bee equipment. Look at the sawing and drying forum, ask questions, lots of info there. Have fun with your project, ask questions, you can have my two cents worth. old243

Thanks theres a lot to learn about starting a project like this.. I had no idea..
yesterday I learned about resin on the blade.. what a mess, using soap in the water now..

[old243]

swamp cat. We never stop learning. When cutting pine or any wood, I lubricate with diesel fuel. Use a very , slow drip, as you cut. It will lubricate and cut the gum. If the blade still gets gummed up, at the end of the cut give it a good squirt. while it is turning. You will find that your blades will stay nice and shiny. Before you take the blade of to sharpen it, make sure it is washed clean. I am sure that someone will say not to use diesel, but the small quantity used will not harm your wood , or the bees. old243

[swampcat]

Aug 30, 2017 21:26:12 GMT -5 old243 said:

swamp cat. We never stop learning. When cutting pine or any wood, I lubricate with diesel fuel. Use a very , slow drip, as you cut. It will lubricate and cut the gum. If the blade still gets gummed up, at the end of the cut give it a good squirt. while it is turning. You will find that your blades will stay nice and shiny. Before you take the blade of to sharpen it, make sure it is washed clean. I am sure that someone will say not to use diesel, but the small quantity used will not harm your wood , or the bees. old243

Thanks for the tip,

I'm going to have to run a couple of blades with diesel, took me a while to figure out what was the matter..
I admit gasoline did cross my mind.. I was wiping down one blade with it..
I'm in to a rich piece 17 inches wide.. I poured the soap to it the last cut and it cleaned up pretty well..
going to turn this piece for a narrower cut.. these boards are a little heavy for me..

it never occurred to me the blade would stick in the wood.. the tensioner popped off and the blade jumped the belts.. glad I didn't start by adjusting things or I would be in trouble...

[old243]

Swampcat, let me know how , you like the diesel, Got my mill in 96, been using diesel after the first year. Don't do a lot of cutting anymore. The boards got heavier over the years. Consider buying a kiln, if you are going to have a mill. Makes your lumber saleable, to the hobby and cabinet folks. Mine is a Nyle 50. old 243

[swampcat]

Aug 31, 2017 8:32:18 GMT -5 old243 said:

Swampcat, let me know how , you like the diesel, Got my mill in 96, been using diesel after the first year. Don't do a lot of cutting anymore. The boards got heavier over the years. Consider buying a kiln, if you are going to have a mill. Makes your lumber saleable, to the hobby and cabinet folks. Mine is a Nyle 50. old 243

Yeah sure will, I tried the soap and it sure works a lot better with it.. finally finished the log today
got my mill last spring decided if I built one shed it would pretty near pay for itself.. just been using it to clean up big limbs and cull problem trees on the property so far..learning about how to manage it mostly.. sure learned that if it will cut a eleven foot board I don;t need eleven footers.. son in law built a nice farmers table with it this summer very nice..